THE ROLE OF THE UKRAINIAN FOLK COSTUME IN THE CREATION OF SCREEN IMAGES IN CINEMATOGRAPHY OF THE 20TH CENTURY

Abstract

Relevance. The Ukrainian national costume recognized by all domestic researchers as a nation code has gained a new life in many artistic branches. Thanks to its skillful use in cinema and theater arts there were created screen images that have not lost their relevance to this day. Therefore, the purpose of the article is to study the role and place of traditions of the Ukrainian folk costume in the national cinematography of the 20th century. We chose staged movies that appeared on screens at different decades as a source for studying the said issue. To perform the set goal, we needed historical and art methods. The most important among historical methods are historical-biographical and historical-comparative methods. They allowed to highlight a number of the most important costume designers who developed patterns for the first domestic movies, forming national school of stage apparel. The historicalcomparative method allowed to determine the main trends in the approaches to the production of national costumes for movies in different historical periods. The art toolkit allowed separately to reveal artistic features of costumes in every chosen movie. Such approach used in the study determined the novelty of the article, both in terms of topic and methods. Conclusions. The studied corpus of domestic movies, mostly historical ones, allowed to make several important conclusions: well-known Ukrainian artists came into the cinema mainly from theater industry, having received their professional experience there. Simultaneously they all went through the study of traditional clothes, its architectonics and coloristics, as well as folk life in general in different ways. During the entire period of development of domestic cinematography, the national costume did not lose its relevance and became a face of historical, and later “poetic” cinema.