NATURAL FORMS OF MINERALS IN COMBINATION WITH BEADS – RENEWAL OF TRADITIONS IN THE CONTEXT OF ECOLOGIZATION OF JEWELERY

Abstract

One of the most interesting trends in modern jewelry is the use of natural forms in mineral products – unprocessed in general or partially processed. Jewelry has undergone significant artistic and conceptual changes, as well as the influx of new materials and techniques. However, many of the newest trends are in fact an improved replica of long-standing trends: traditional folk crafts related to the creation of jewelry are being revived and becoming more widespread. Here it is necessary to name ornaments from a twisted wire, beads, a horn, a tree, glass, threads and others. There is currently controversy among art critics as to whether jewelry made from non-jewelry materials can be considered jewelry. The argument of opponents of this attitude to products made of non-precious materials is the very name “jewelry” – jewel, from “precious stone”. According to them, the concept of “jewelry art” can include only jewelry made using valuable materials. However, the high quality and artistic value of jewelry made of “non-jewelry” materials often puts them on a par with traditional jewelry. Techniques such as beadwork, thread weaving and wood carving are currently considered decorative and applied arts. But the attraction of precious or semi-precious materials, elements of precious metals puts them on the border between decorative and jewelry art. In particular, this article proposes to consider jewelry made of beads, the main elements of which are precious minerals of natural forms. Raw minerals are also on the border between the concept of “precious” and “derived”: because often the concept of “precious” is associated with the concept of “faceted” and a whole scale of quality based on physical and chemical properties of the mineral, while omitting its artistic value and visual uniqueness. Thus, the aim of the study is to consider various examples of the use of minerals of natural forms in beaded jewelry and give arguments about their belonging to the art of jewelry.